Bikaner

Bikaner offers a distinctive mix of history, culture and desert experiences. Its highlights include the impressive Junagarh Fort, the sacred Karni Mata Temple in Deshnok, the National Research Centre on Camel, and the beautifully carved Rampuria Havelis. Compared with Rajasthan’s busier cities, Bikaner also feels relatively relaxed and less hectic.

October to February is ideal, with temperatures ranging from as low as 5°C at night (in December/January) to a comfortable 25°C at midday. The Bikaner Camel Fair takes place in January and is one of Rajasthan's most vibrant events. March to May can be extremely hot, making sightseeing less comfortable. Bikaner’s winter light is fantastic, making it an ideal time to photograph the red sandstone fort, the Havelis, and the ancient city.

1.5 to 2 days of travelling around the city. On Day 1 morning, visit Junagarh Fort; in the afternoon, visit the Rampuria Havelis & the old city bazaar; and in the late afternoon, visit Lalgarh Palace. On Day 2, start with the Karni Mata Temple in Deshnok, then spend the afternoon at the National Research Centre on Camels. This deserves an overnight visit rather than a day trip from anywhere.

Originally built in 1589–94 by Raja Rai Singh, Chintamani, Junagarh is one of India's best-preserved and most spectacular fort complexes not built on a hilltop. Inside, Anup Mahal, Chandra Mahal, and Badal Mahal feature some of Rajasthan's finest mirror-work and gold-leaf decoration, and the Prachina Museum is also impressive. Indo-Saracenic Lalgarh Palace was built by Maharaja Ganga Singh in the early 20th century – part heritage hotel, part museum. The Rampuria Havelis offer a fascinating mix of Rajput, Mughal and colonial styles on their facades and interiors.

Karni Mata, the Rat Temple, is one of India’s most famous and unusual temples, dedicated to Karni Mata, a mystic seer believed to be an earthly incarnation of Durga. This present incarnation in marble and silver was built in the early 20th century by Maharaja Ganga Singh; around 25,000 rats, known as kabbas, roam the complex of their own free will and are venerated as resurrected worshippers. Take off your shoes on entering and be extremely careful where you place your feet, as accidentally stepping on a rat is considered to be a bad omen; however, on the bright side, having a rat run over your feet is thought to be a good omen, and spotting a very rare white rat is said to be a particularly significant sign. Entry is free, and the temple is open all day long.

Bikaneri Bhujia - a gram flour fried noodle snack originally developed here but now sold all over the world-is best purchased fresh and by the packet or in loose form from stores in the old city, as opposed to individually packaged items. Bikaneri Rasgulla is a variation-more syrupy, much softer than the traditional versions- while the Bikaneri Kachori, again flakier and spicier compared to the Jodhpur equivalent, is also a tasty local speciality. Unique here are also camel milk products sold at the National Research Centre on Camel, such as camel milk ice cream. The lanes around Kote Gate are lined with sweet and snack shops in the old city.

Our only choice really is Narendra Bhawan, part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World- an ex-residence of Maharaja Narendra Singhji, which has been converted into an exquisitely designed hotel ranging from gem-toned Residence suites to trendy India rooms, with an infinity pool on the rooftop and fine dining (focusing on Mughal and Marwari cuisine). A classic alternative is Laxmi Niwas Palace. Built in 1902 by Maharaja Ganga Singh and run by Taj Hotels, it has no doubt real royal flair. To experience the Rampuria Haveli, consider staying at Bhanwar Niwas, which still has original frescoes and carved stone facades.

Organised by Rajasthan Tourism Development Corp for two days in the second week of January, this fair has everything to do with the camel races, polo, a decoration contest for a richly embroidered and painted camel and pulling of the camel rope, as well as folk music and other entertaining events like turban competitions, of course with a far less intense crowd than the one at Pushkar Camel Fair and with the amazing backdrop of the fort and old city.

Yes, it was set up in 1984 about 8 km from the city and is considered the world's premier research centre for camel conservation, research & development. The centre maintains herds of many breeds native to the country and conducts genetic, nutrition, and milk production studies; this research has led to international recognition of the decline of indigenous camel breeds. The Camel Milk Parlour offers fresh camel milk, ice cream, cheese, and lassi.

The desert cities make a convenient circle trip, and from Jaipur, Bikaner is about 330 kms and a five-hour drive or trip by train; from Jodhpur, it's about 250 kms and four hours by road; and from Jaisalmer, it's a five-hour road journey (via the heart of the Thar). For a feel of the desert in western Rajasthan, go for a Jodhpur–Khimsar–Bikaner–Jaisalmer trip; the variety at each stage is what it is all about. Don't just go through Jodhpur and Jaisalmer!