Udaipur

The city grew up around a chain of lakes, whose construction began under Mewar's successive rulers. The central, oldest lake, Pichola, was first constructed by Maharana Lakha in 1362 AD, and Maharana Udai Singh II later expanded it; the city was built along its banks in 1559. Fateh Sagar, Rang Sagar and Swaroop Sagar lakes form a connecting link around many parts of the city, the development of which can be dated back centuries in a line, and on these banks the palaces, temples and ghats add colour, with none of them being natural but formed by barricading seasonal torrents, which led a British administrator, Colonel James Todd, in the 19th century to describe the place as the most romantic place on the continent of India

It would be from October to March, when night temperatures range from approximately ten on the coldest winter nights to around twenty-eight in the afternoon, great for boat trips and wandering about the old city. December and November offer clear blue skies and the clearest reflections on the lake. Gangaur takes place during March and April with processions and music along the Ghats. Monsoons take hold from July to September, when the lake rises in a truly spectacular way. The Aravallis bloom into lush green and are, to my mind, the most dramatic. Still, some outdoor activities have limited use, while July to September and April to June get very hot, often exceeding 38 to 42 degrees

Three full days here for the city itself, with more for the region around it. Day one: City Palace ( Rajasthan's biggest in this regard) and a sunset trip on Lake Pichola. Day two: Good for Jagdish Temple, an evening show of folk dance at Bagore Ki Haveli, Fateh Sagar Lake, and Saheliyon Ki Bari(the garden). Day three would be appropriate for the Sunset view at Monsoon Palace and Ahar Museum. Add an extra day (or two) for Kumbhalgarh Fort, Ranakpur, or Chittorgarh, as each is worth at least a half day.

The City Palace complex-started in 1559 and still partly privately owned by the royal family is Rajasthan’s biggest and is worth three or four hours, although fine Mor Chowk (peacock mosaics) and Sheesh Mahal interiors are the main draw. Sunset on Lake Pichola by boat is almost mandatory, while Jag Mandir Island, across from Rameshwar Ghat, is a lovely oasis with gardens and pavilions all accessible for free. In the evening, the Bagore Ki Haveli show features an old, authentic Ghoomar and Kalbeliya folk performance. For the best panoramic views of the lakes, you should visit Monsoon Palace on a hill west of the city about an hour before sunset

On Jag Niwas Island, the Taj Lake Palace (1743-46; arrival by private boat) averages 9.5 among all international respondents. The Oberoi Udaivilas on the shores of Lake Pichola is an extensive complex, with 90 suites spread over 30 acres and nine pools; it consistently appears in Asia’s Best Hotel awards, averaging 9.7. On the quiet side of Udai Sagar Lake, on an exclusive island where Raffles Udaipur opened earlier this year, with panoramic views towards the lake and mountains, there's a fast rival to the existing upper echelon: the 9.7-ranked Leela Palace, on the banks of Lake Pichola, with 80 rooms furnished traditionally. But a more rugged, outside-of-town alternative is RAAS Devigarh, an 18th-century palace just 28 kilometres from the city in the quiet of Delwara, fully restored as the most beautiful heritage boutique choice around

Neel Kamal at the Taj Lake Palace, with marble columns and lake reflections, is one of India's most atmospheric dining rooms. Udai Kothi's rooftop restaurant Neel is the most popular open-air spot for views of the City Palace and Lake Pichola. Sheesh Mahal at the Leela Palace, named for its mirror-work ceiling, serves refined Indian food in an opulent setting. Ambrai on the lake shore at Amet Haveli places tables at the water's edge facing the illuminated palaces at night, an informal but unforgettable meal. Bhairo, the rooftop restaurant at the Taj Lake Palace, offers European cuisine with spectacular views.

Around the City Palace, countless reputable galleries focus on the Mewar school of miniature painting (fine works in traditional art, executed over several centuries by artists on cloth, paper, and marble with natural colours), and most allow you to watch artists at work. Hathi Pol Bazaar and Bada Bazaar are, perhaps, the truest of the shopping streets, offering block-printed textiles, meenakari silver jewels, and more. Shilpgram, a crafts village a few miles west of the city (6km/3.7mi), brings artists and craftsmen from Rajasthan and tribal communities. Sadhana, adjacent to the City Palace, is one of two fair-trade operations; support from outside agencies provides uniformly higher quality, a vital service for artisans who primarily serve local rural women.

Kumbhalgarh Fort (90km, 2 h), UNESCO-listed, has an immense 36km defensive wall, views over the Aravallis, and pairs well with the Ranakpur Jain Temples (96km), with its stunning 1444 individually carved marble columns. Chittorgarh Fort (115km), India's most significant Rajput site, is a 700-acre complex dominated by the Vijay Stambh. Eklingji Temple (22km N) houses the deity personally venerated by the Udaipur royal family. The Jawai Leopard area near Pali (160km N) is India’s most dependable place for leopard spotting, amid impressive granite formations.

A rarely rivalled cocktail of lake palaces, candlelit gondola rides, and rooftop dinners overlooking light facades and winding historic laneways. The island hotel (Taj Lake Palace), situated mid-lake, rivals Oberoi Udaivilas (with villa swimming pools for each couple) and Raffles Udaipur (on its own islet), all with the highest standards of service dedicated solely to couples. Each memory: a private boat tour on Lake Pichola at twilight, folkloric Dharohar at Bagore Ki Haveli in the evening, sunrise over the lake from a City Palace balcony, and dinner at Ambrai reflected in a fully illuminated lake palace.

It's better than much of Rajasthan (thanks to the altitude and the lake setting), though it’s still hot. At around 33-37C in April, this is much milder than, for example, Jodhpur or Jaisalmer. May and June are hotter, pushing 38-42C. Still, you have a Lake Breeze to look forward to in the evenings, more than would appear from the mercury: you can still walk through the shaded lanes of the old city in the mornings and after about 5 pm, hotel rates slump, and boat trips and visits to the City Palace feel a lot less hectic. You will certainly not have this place all to yourself, but you could at least feel that you can… July to September is real beauty; the lakes brim, and the hills are green as they are ever going to be, with the atmospheric August Hariyali Amavasya festival along the lake edge probably one of the events of the year.