Bharatpur

Keoladeo National Park (previously the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary) is one of the best bird sanctuaries on Earth. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts keen birdwatchers and photographers from around the globe for its incredible bird density in such a concentrated space. Bharatpur also boasts history: its fortress, Lohagarh Fort, is one of only two or three Indian fortresses to have repelled British attacks in early 19th-century wars, and its location between Agra and Jaipur puts it at the heart of a key section of one of India’s busiest heritage trails.

A small, shallow natural depression at the eastern edge of Rajasthan, about 2 km south of Bharatpur town and 55 km west of Agra, covering some 29 km. Once a shallow marsh, it became the Maharajas of Bharatpur's waterfowl gun-shooting area from the 1850s, and was declared a bird sanctuary in 1956 and a National Park in 1982. It was awarded World Heritage status in 1985 in recognition of its unparalleled status as the world’s major winterING ground for migratory waterfowl on the Central Asian flyway and as a breeding ground for resident birds; some 370 species of birds are recorded; and it had, until recent times, been considered the wintering site of the Siberian Crane, now critically threatened.

October to February is the most successful bird migration season, with visits from bar-headed geese, pintail, common pochard, ruddy shelduck, and many other species from the Siberian, Chinese, and Central Asian regions; strong counts in November and December can make it especially rewarding. It's a good breeding season for resident species between July and October, as painted storks, herons, egrets, cormorants, ibis and spoonbills breed in vast colonies, normally supporting in excess of twenty thousand nesting pairs annually. Birdwatching continues between March and June; since it's not peak migration season, it's less crowded but still enjoyable, with plenty of resident species to see and mammals still active.

No vehicles are allowed within the park: you'll roam on foot, by bicycle, or by local cycle rickshaws operated by trained local guides, offering a remarkably quiet, close-to-nature experience where the soundtrack is birdsong. The park is only 29 sq km, so an exceptional sighting could occur minutes from the gate, and the density of birds, especially in peak season, is among the highest in the world for any protected area. The rickshaw guides bring with them decades of experience in where to find nests and seasonal patterns, which can really shape your trip.

One to two nights. A single full day allows two sessions in the park, one early morning and one late afternoon, the most productive times for birdwatching. Serious birdwatchers stay two nights for four sessions across two days. Bharatpur also works very well as a single overnight stop on the Jaipur-Agra route, adding a nature-focused counterpoint to the architectural sightseeing on either side. With a car, a half-day excursion to Fatehpur Sikri, 40 km away, or to the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort, 55 km away, is easy to fit in.

Lohagarh (Iron Fort), an eighteenth-century fortification in the centre of Bharatpur city, was built by the city's founder, the Jat ruler Maharaja Suraj Mal, in 1730. The fort is well known in Indian history as one of the few Indian fortifications that withstood the British army's repeated attempts to gain access: during attacks by British forces from 1803 to 1805, there were four attempts, all unsuccessful, with significant damage to their forces. It wasn't until 1826, after a long siege resulting from an internal dispute over the Bharatpur royal family's accession to the throne, that it was conquered. Today, the Bharatpur Archaeological Museum is located at Lohagarh Fort and exhibits various sculptures, inscriptions, coins, and royal memorabilia.

At 55 km away and an hour's drive, it's one of the most accessible wildlife trips from any big Indian heritage city. Leaving a day early still gives you two to three hours on site during the most productive morning hours. However, serious birdwatching demands an overnight and has great appeal because of the incredible early-morning light in winter, which is otherwise inaccessible from Agra without an unearthly departure time. Stopping in Bharatpur on an itinerary between Jaipur and Agra adds real depth, when you might have expected only towns and cities.

The heritage option, Laxmi Vilas Palace-converted to a hotel in 1994, only 5 min from the park entrance, offers Bharatpur's most atmospheric setting, in extensive gardens; there is a period feel with relevant furnishings, a swimming pool and a spa. The Bagh is the smartest modern resort (2 km from the entrance), set in tranquil gardens. Amritara Chandra Mahal Haveli, a comfortable hotel with some Rajasthani flavour, is close to the park. Hotels nearest to the entrance, in fact, count for most here, at least for early morning visits.

Just over 40 km away, Fatehpur Sikri is India's best-preserved Mughal ghost capital, built by Akbar in 1571–85 and soon abandoned; its Jama Masjid, Diwan-i-Khas, Panch Mahal and Buland Darwaza are phenomenal; the whole complex is itself a UNESCO-listed site. The ubiquitous Taj Mahal, 55 km east, is a must for first-time visitors. The best-kept, most underrated palaces and gardens in Rajasthan are at Deeg (35 km east), from the same Jat rulers as Bharatpur Fort, with impressive fountains set up for monsoon days. You can explore fine decorated havelis around Karauli, about 115 km east, along with Kaila Devi Temple.

The park runs from sunrise to sunset year-round. Foreign visitor entry fees are separate from the compulsory guide or rickshaw charges at the gate. Since no motorised vehicles are allowed, hire a cycle-rickshaw with a trained guide, whose knowledge of current nesting activity is invaluable. Binoculars are essential, and a telephoto lens greatly improves photography. The paths are earthen and can be muddy after rain, so wear good walking shoes; there are no shops inside, so carry water. The best light for photography is the first two hours after sunrise from October to February.